I'll just stay here

I write this blog, having been recently infected with COVID. The first time was in May of 2022. This time around, I am a little worse for the wear, but it allows me, through a foggy haze, to contemplate this pesky and resilient virus on its almost fourth anniversary since hearing about its emergence in Wuhan.

I traveled on a plane five times since March 2020, when most of the world shut down from COVID-19. Three of the trips were to Italy — Bologna, Puglia, and Bellagio. The other two were to Seattle and Switzerland. To put this globetrotting footprint into perspective, I would travel on average about ten international flights a year before the pandemic. In those three and a half years, my average was 1.5 trips a year. Don’t get me wrong. The ability to travel and see the world is truly a privilege. We travel to find ourselves, to discover new places, and to understand humanity. I was fortunate to travel to some very faraway places before social media, iPhones, and Instagram, in which everywhere and everything is distilled down to a “been there down that” disposable, bragable moment. They were the best times of travel - conveniences but without the crowds.

From the paper by Ripple et al 2023

I share my travelogue history during the pandemic with you because the one thing COVID-19 forced upon many of us was to stay put. While I don’t think the world has deeply reflected enough about the impacts of the pandemic on our society (particularly the loss of life and suffering), the lessons learned, and the murky path forward, the world did pause (and was truly quieter), and this respite did wonders, at least temporarily, for Mother Earth. Just look at these figures of air transport and greenhouse gas emissions per capita in 2020 and the dip. A flight from London to New York is about 1,000 kg (1 ton) of carbon dioxide. There are crude and somewhat flawed comparisons to relate this footprint to other activities like household electricity consumption, driving a car, and eating hamburgers. Just know, this is a lot. To put the flight emissions into perspective, the U.S., on average, produces about 16 tons of carbon a year (the world average is 4). The world needs to move towards 2 tons per year by 2050. Travel is a significant component of the U.S.’s emissions.

As I see it, my time of heavy travel is over. It is now the next generation’s turn to see the world and for the world to see them while they can. It will get more complicated to travel. It already is. It will become less fun and full of hassle, and it will further exhibit inequities. There will be places that will be incredibly difficult to travel to — too hot, too dangerous, too constrained.

When I think about the limits of travel and time spent over these last four years, this spoken word song Nirvana, comes to mind. It is told by Tom Waits — a master singer-songwriter who croons conversational late-night stories through songs — on his Orphans: Brawlers, Bawlers & Bastards album. Waits poignantly, but always in keeping with his guttural delivery, recites a poem of the same name by Charles Bukowski about a young man who, for a moment, is lost in the magic of a cafe in a small town he is passing through. At one point, the man thinks: “I’ll just sit here, I’ll just stay here.” But he doesn’t. He boards the Greyhound bus once again and moves on, and no one, except him, even noticed the magic of that somewhere town.

In the Nirvana story, the weary traveler longs for a place to call home and hang his hat. He seems lost and is searching for the magic that life has not yet offered him. That is why we travel, yes? I sought after that magic when I journeyed — that place where one can say, “Everything was beautiful there, that it would always stay beautiful there.” And while through all of my travels, there have been many experiences, instances, and glimpses of beauty and enchantment, it gets harder for me to want more. Instead, I will embrace the magic I picked up along the way and “just stay here.”

Experiencing places in the quiet

My partner and I have a habit of traveling to places when no one else is around, which is often called “off-season” or “low season.” Sometimes we come to places where we happen to be the only people in the entire hotel. Last year, we traveled to Sardinia in November. COVID-19 was still surging, but it had not really touched Sardinia in any significant way. We stayed in some of the most beautiful hotels without a soul in sight. We swam in the ocean and yes, it was a bit cold, but we got some sun on our skin, and enjoyed the incredible bounty of seafood that is so delicious that time of year (shellfish). Right now, we are in Puglia – a very popular destination these days – but only in the summer. Puglia is the heel of Italy, where they grow a ton of olive oil and enjoy their cima di rapa and taralli. To Puglians, their high season is from May to September. After that, “chiuso.” Even though it may be 70 degrees outside, out come the puffy jackets and hats, and no more swimming in the crystal-clear blue waters of the Mediterranean. Anyone who does is “pazza.” What bliss it is to be in places that aren’t “shoulder to shoulder” with other American, British, and German tourists. Instead, we catch a glimpse of how Italians really live, breathing a sigh of relief when they can have their cities back to themselves.

Alone in Chioggia

We have always done this. Gone to the unpopular places in off-season. Vegas on Christmas. Ski towns in the spring. Namibia in December. It calms us. In fact, it delights us middle-aged folk who are in their autumn years. Of course, the weather is not totally ideal, and not everything is open and in its right place, but there is quietness, stillness, and abandonment that is calming and almost meditating. Here in Puglia, sometimes we have restaurants to ourselves. Where we are staying now, at a Masseria, which are 16th-century farmhouses typically found in the Puglia region, we have our own personal gourmet chef (and waiter) for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Who can beat that?  There are no lines, no need to book much of anything, no obnoxious parties on boats, or loud blaring TVs in the hotel room next door. One may argue that this type of travel is like buying the winter coat during the spring sale, and there is some grain of truth in that, but everything is definitely cheaper.  And, it is just, well, quiet.

And we still get to partake in the beautiful scenery of the cities, nature, and food. What more could you ask for? Speaking of food, Puglian food is quite good. See this mouth-watering visual post. They are all about olive oil, bread (so much bread), and seafood. They are also known for pasta shaped like ears, also known as orecchiette.  They also have this bread that is very hard, called frisella that sailors brought with them across long seas journeys because they lasted a good long time. The photo shows this frisella cooked in tomatoes with spinach and burrata. Yum. They are also known for their zuppa di pesce. We had some, but it was not my favorite. We had lots of pesce crude (raw) and of course, vongole. They like their clams here. Maybe that is where I got my obsession with clams. You see, my family comes from Puglia, Foggia (a not-so-pretty but heavily industrial town in Northern Puglia - not the trendy Salento). Clams are in my genes.

All this to say, sometimes it is better to be in places that are not instagrammable, that don’t bring forth bragging rights. With almost every travel experience having become spoiled, overcrowded, and overphotographed, sometimes experiencing places in abandonment and in the quiet puts a new perspective on them and within yourself. It is in the quiet where I feel most alive.